The observant will
notice I've recently written a few posts about Peru. Sacrilege on a
blog about Ecuador! The two countries have
certainly had a turbulent history, with war in the recent past and a
neighbourly rivalry that straddles the fine line of friendship.
A flippant comment on
my blog (posted after I'd extolled the beauties of Peru's Amazonas
region) asked why anybody would want to go to Ecuador? Well, it got
me thinking.
With the World Cup in Brazil just months away (which Peru didn't qualify for, and Ecuador did) I've devised a thrilling football-themed eight round contest (including beaches, food, music,
wildlife and archaeological sites) to find out once and for all who
is the top Andean country... sorry Bolivia, Chile, and Colombia, I'm
sure you're nice too.
The English referee Tom Rayner blows the whistle to start the match.
Coast and beaches: The
Ecuadorian coast is lush, backed by cloud forests and forests of palo
santo (the fragrant holy wood). The beach of Los Frailes in Manabi is
the most beautiful beach I have ever seen. The ocean in Ecuador is
also warmer than Peru, benefiting from a current of warm water. The
beaches in Peru are more often than not surrounded by featureless, sandy desert
and dunes. I spent Christmas on a Peruvian beach in sun-soaked
Mancora and it was idyllic... it just wasn't Los Frailes.
Food: When it comes to
cooking Peru blows Ecuador out of the water. Two of the best meals
I've ever eaten have been in Peru. Peruvian chefs take real pride in their cuisine
and it is now rightly recognised around the world. Here's a snapshot of the
global reach of Peruvian cuisine (vs Ecuadorian). When we were
looking for South American restaurants in London, Peru has Soho'strendy Ceviche or VirgilioMartinez's Michelin-starred Lima. The best Ecuadorian restaurant is
El Rincon Quiteno on the Holloway Road, where Lucy refused to eat.
Peruvian tiradito (raw tuna with a caramel, ginger and lemon sauce) mixes the art of
Japanese fish preparation with the intense flavours of Latin America.
The tiradito at La
Sirena de Juan in Mancora was mind-blowing and La Fiesta in Chiclayo
might be the best restaurant I've ever eaten in. Of course, Ecuador
has a few delicious regional dishes – such as corviche, bolones
(plantain and cheese balls), and locro (potato, cheese and avocado
soup) but generally, Ecuadorian cuisine is plainer and less
adventurous.
Peru equalises 1:1
Ceviche mixto in Quito |
Drink: Peru has the
Pisco Sour cocktail, Ecuador has shots of neat trago. Pisco is a
Peruvian take on Italian grappa, a strong spirit produced from grapes
and the delicious Pisco Sour is made with lemon, egg white and
bitters. Trago, on the other hand, is a much cruder sugar cane spirit
that can be added to the Ecuadorian winter wamer canelazo, a spicy
brew made from the narnajilla fruit. Beer-wise Peru has Cusquena
compared to Ecuador's has Pilsner and Club. Cusquena's rubia (blonde)
variety beats its Ecuadorian cousins, but I prefer Club Negra to
Cusquena's dark efforts (which is far too sweet). Peru also has
Pilsen and Cristal, but I prefer Cusquena. Peru produces mostly bad
wine, but imported bottles of Chilean and Argentinian wine are nearly
half the price than in Ecuador.
It's a close call but
I'll award it to Peru on the strength of the Pisco Sour and cheaper
wine 1:2
Archaeological sites:
You can't walk down the street in Peru without stumbling across an
artefact of astounding archaeological significance. There's such an
abundance of archaeological sites in Peru that many have yet to be
investigated. Only a tiny portion of Kuelap has been excavated and
when we went to Sican, of the 38 huacas (pyramids) in the national
park only four had been explored. Then there are the breath-taking cliff-top mummies of the Chachapoyas. Ecuador has its own archaeological
sites and its own important Incan heritage, but Machu Picchu they are
not.
Peru is pulling away, this could be a humiliating thrashing for poor Ecuador 1:3
Peru is pulling away, this could be a humiliating thrashing for poor Ecuador 1:3
Nature: Ecuador is one
of the most bio-diverse countries in the world. What Peru is to
archaeologists Ecuador is to ornithologists. Despite its size Ecuador
has over 1,600 bird species (the coolest of all being the mighty
condor) and over 4,000 varieties of wild orchid. I haven't even
mentioned Ecuador's Galapagos islands, home to the giant tortoise
(among other residents). Sure Peru has the hairless dog, which is
good for a quick gawk and a giggle but it's hardly a giant tortoise.
Until Peru comes up with something to match the giant tortoise (like
a giant hairless dog) then it's an easy victory for Ecuador.
Ecuador pulls a goal back
just before half-time, that's a life line 2:3
Dog breeders of Peru... make me one of these the size of a hippopotamus and you beat Ecuador |
Getting around:
Ecuador's relatively tiny size compared to Peru (the 19th
largest country in the world) is a boon for travellers. In a day it's
possible to visit volcanic Andean highlands, Amazonic rainforest and
Pacific coast. Getting anywhere in Peru takes a long time and a lot
of effort, a short journey of just 30 miles in the remote Chachapoyas
region nearly defeated me. The roads in Ecuador are in much better
condition and have fewer unpaved surfaces and potholes. Petrol in
oil-rich Ecuador is also a fraction of the price than in Peru, so
taxis and buses can pass on this saving to their passengers.
Ecuadorian taxis are much more likely to have a meter – it doesn't
mean the prices are fairer, but at least they're more transparent. In
Peru you need to negotiate a price before stepping into the cab. Of
course, to negotiate a fair price you need to know what a fair price
is... unsurprisingly the taxi driver rarely loses. Also Ecuador has a
train service (of sorts). The old railway travels from Quito, high in
the Andes, all the way down to Guayaquil (the busy port
in the south).
Ecuador packs Peru's
geographic diversity into a bite-sized morsel, it also has cheap
petrol, and its own railway... 3:3 it's squeaky bum time
Ecuador's train service in Alausi |
Fiestas: Ecuador is the
official fiesta capital of the world. The parties are loud, drunken
and last for days, sometimes weeks. Time and time again I've arrived
into an Ecuadorian town or village to discover some festival or other
is either brewing or in full-swing. From the UNESCO-recognisedDiablada Pillarena, to smaller fiestas like El Tingo's Virgen deMerced, or Salango's Balsa Mantena, there's a fiesta happening
somewhere in Ecuador. Of course, Peru loves to party as much as
Ecuador and every town has its own fiesta patronal – honouring the
town's patron. These can also last for long drunken days where the
drinking is interspersed by dancing and fireworks. However, Ecuador's
fiestas tend to have more of a theme and an identity... such as
Latacunga's fiesta de Mama Negra.
It's a close-run thing
and I've certainly been a lot more exposed to Ecuador's fiesta
culture than Peru's but I think I have to award this one to Ecuador
4:3 (what a comeback from the little country with a big heart)
Capitals: Lima vs
Quito. I don't feel qualified to answer this satisfactorily so I'm
calling in Lucy who has lived in Lima for six years, and in Quito for
15 years. She's lived in Quito for longer, but is a self-confessed
Lima-phile (and definitely not a llama-phile, that's something very
different)
A skilled pyro-technician sets off the firework display at a fiesta with fag |
“The two cities
couldn't be more different. Quito is high in the clouds in the centre
of the world, at 2,800 metres and under the shadows of towering
volcanoes. Lima sprawls along the coast – a conglomeration of many
smaller towns, merged into one greater, and not always united, mass.
“I love Lima, I love
its chaos, its dirty identity. The adventure on every street and the
surprises it throws up. The food is amazing and not just in the top
restaurants, even smaller, unknown venues serve incredible dishes.
Artists' neighbourhoods like Baranco are vibrant and fun with views
out across the sea.
“Quito has the most
beautiful colonial centre of any city in Latin America. The
architecture is incredible and the churches of San Francisco and the
Iglesia Compania de Jesus are stunning and stand up to some of the
best in the world.
“The inequality in
Lima is more striking than Quito. Sure, Quito is divided between
north and south, but at least the poorer communities in the south
have breeze-block housing with running water and sewage. The shanty
towns around Lima exist on the desert dunes in shacks made from
estera. The rich live in neighbourhoods, like Miraflores, and are
surrounded and serviced by neighbourhoods in poverty, like Surquillo.
Of course the rich and poor areas are separated by busy roads. The
inequality and social exclusion is even worse in the towns to the
south of Lima, like Asia, where rich Limenos have their second-homes
on the beach. There the maids are not allowed out during certain
times and when they do it must be in uniform.
“For a tourist Quito
has the most immediate and obvious attractions from the colonial
centre to the mountain backdrop. In three days it's easier to explore
and get a feel for Quito. But obviously, it's a lot smaller than Lima
with a much smaller population. If you're spending longer, then Lima
has more to teach and offer than Quito and will make a more lasting
social impression.
“And of course,
there's the weather... The weather in Lima is disgusting. For six
months of the year the sky looks like Brussels, it is dark and grey
and threatens to rain. Of course, you get three months of summer
which is lovely, and three months of transitional period. Quito is
perpetual spring, never too hot, never too cold – when it rains, it
rains heavily and is soon over, and the sun surely follows.”
It's a bit of a
stalemate on this one – the two capitals are so different it is
impossible to compare them and it really depends of what and when you
are looking for... it's still 4:3 and heading into injury time
Music: I've chosen two
musical genres – closely associated with Peru and Ecuador – to
represent the respective countries. For Peru I've chosen Chica and
Festejo. Representing Ecuador is San Juanito and Pasillo.
Chicha was born in Peru
but its popularity swept across the Andean countries. It's also
popular in Argentina, where they call it Cumbia Villera. Chicha
arrived in the 1960s when Lima received massive immigration from the
Andes, mixing tropical music with highland-folk. Chicha relies on an
electric guitar, instead of an acoustic guitar. In the last ten years
it has become trendy with young Peruvians, shaking off its working
class roots and arriving in the discos and student bars of Barranco.
Chicha is classic dance and drinking music. My very favourite Chicha
song (and in fact, Latin American song) is Te Vas, Te Vas by Grupo 5.
Festejo is an
Afro-Peruvian rhythm. There is debate over the authenticity of
Festejo, some critics claim it is a relatively modern reinvention to
give the black population of Peru an identity. Festejo uses donkey
jaws as a rattling, percussion instrument. My favourite Festejo song
is Eva Ayllon's Saca la Mano.
San Juanito is fun
Andean folk music from Ecuador and always gets an airing at a fiesta.
It even derives its name from the fiesta de San Juan, with which it
is closely associated. It is upbeat and danced with handkerchiefs
(like English Morris dancing). The festival of San Juan shares pagan
roots with the Incan festival of Inti Raymi, celebrating the sun God
on June 24. The best San Juanito song is Jatari's Chimbalito, sung
in Quechua (that's how tr00 it is).
Pasillo is mournful,
drinking music from Ecuador. The songs are melancholy and the lyrics
are dramatic and over-the-top. There is a European undertone to the
music, particularly the Viennese Waltz. There's a pasillo song called
Diseccion where the singer imagines his own death and being sliced up
on the autopsy table while he remembers his true love, pretty
gruesome stuff for non-death metal audiences. Until the 1950s amorous
young men would hire a pasillo band to serenade their sweethearts
under the window. If the girl accepted her lover's overtures she
would appear at the window, if the gesture was rebuffed she would
remain in bed.
I'll huff and I'll puff and I'll blow your house down |
FINAL SCORE: I love pasillo for
mournful drinking sessions and there's nothing like San Juanito for
getting the fiesta started... but then Te Vas, Te Vas is my favourite
Latin song of all time... so it has to go to Peru... and the final
whistle blows... a thrilling 4-4 draw. Both sets of fans can go home
happy after this stunning performance. Perhaps, a special thank you
to our English referee Tom Rayner?
There is plenty to see in both Ecuador and Peru! Each part of the world is uniquely beautiful. Explore, travel, learn about other cultures, make friends, share love. Sorry for whoever wrote such short-sighted comment. I'm from Peru and Ecuador is definitely on my list of places to visit :)
ReplyDeleteI think the approach you give on the nature of Peru is not fair enough, Andean-amazonic countries are so biodiversed and interesting as a group or by themselves. If you wanted to say something about exotic life in Peru you could have referred to the pink dolphins, the anacondas, the spectacled bear, the penguins, the chinchillas, etc. instead of just focusing on one single animal. I don't look down on Ecuador's nature which is pretty much the same as the Peruvian, but if you check the number of orchids or birds species in Peru the amount is the same or even more. Don't do as we LimeƱos do, that is believing Peru is only Lima. (or Machu Picchu if you are a foreigner)
ReplyDeleteSan Juanito gets my vote!
ReplyDeleteUgh. Peru is just TOO touristy. Ecuador it is for me.
ReplyDeleteI wonder what food you tried out in Ecuador.. The Coast's food is definitely a winner... Did you try cazuela mixta? Or caldo de bola? Or the even more delicious encebollado de pescado (which also happens to be the perfect cure to a hangover), or the delicious Moros con queso? I know Peruvian food is good, but I am still a fan of Ecuador's food... as an Ecuadorian though, I might be biased.
ReplyDeleteYou must be Ecuadorian.
ReplyDeleteI am not. English, if you're interested
DeleteI think you copped out on the "Capital" scoring. Quito's setting surrounded by the majestic Andean mountains alone should give Ecuador the tie-breaking "GOAL!" for the win...5-4.
ReplyDeleteit is weird because the train railroad is way bigger in Peru than in Ecuador, at least that's what Wikipedia says. I've been to both countries and I love the train service to Cusco, the ancient capital of the Inca Empire. It may be that I am also a Peruphile but hey, I couldn't help it with the food they got me there haha!. Anyhow, I love both countries I would like to return but I think everybody should go to Cusco, it is an unforgettable experience and for that reason I give my vote to Peru...both are beautiful countries with great services and very nice and friendly people. cheers!
ReplyDeleteLive CockFighting Baccarat Betting in Indonesia. The cocks are grown specifically to fight to make them aggressive by crows. Enjoy your great time at.
ReplyDeletesabung ayam
judi sabung ayam
agen sabung ayam online
sabung ayam s128
bolavita s128
s128
WA : +62812-2222-995
Peruvian cuisine is very good but the reason you weren't too fond of the Ecuadorian one was that you went to the highlands. Instead of eating in the coast. No encebollado, seco, bollo? Ceviches in Ecuador are amazing as well.
ReplyDelete