Reina is the Spanish
word for Queen and Ecuadorians love Reinas.
Let's be clear from the
start, these queens aren't the sort of dignified, noble monarchs you
might find on the back of a five pound note. No, sir. The biggest
difference is they're sexy and throw sweets at you.
There's only one thing
the Ecuadorians love as much as a Reina, and that's a Fiesta. Hardly
a day has gone by without stumbling blindly into the middle of a
Bacchanalian revelry. The reasons for the fiestas are usually
shrouded in a mystery more impenetrable than the Enigma code.
Sometimes it's a Virgin, sometimes it's liberation from the Spanish,
sometimes it can just be a donkey's birthday.
By way of example, I was in
the small sub-tropical town of Quinsaloma. As we drove into town we
passed three separate stages, rigged to the nines with lights and
amps. It looked like a rock concert and this was just a Wednesday night. It
turned out the town was celebrating its new civic status – it was
no longer going to be categorised as a small town, it was now a mid-sized town.
It's hard to imagine a duller and more meaninglessly bureaucratic
reason to celebrate, but this didn't stop the local population going
bat-shit mental armed only with brass bands, trago and partially
de-weaponised fireworks.
Have a basketball, of course |
Have some strawberries, why not? |
But I digress, back to the
Reinas. There cannot be a fiesta in Ecuador without at least 20
Reinas. They ride majestically through the town on the back of
agricultural trailers that, only the day before, were carrying a pig
and six cows to market.
Under President Rafael
Correa Ecuador has finally found political stability. This new
democracy is contagious and to become a Reina you need popular
support. In the week preceding the festival voting takes place.
I was in Ambato this
week and the University was hosting an election for its Reina. The
walls of the campus were plastered with campaign posters, each with a
glamour snap of the hopeful candidate. They were selling tickets for
the Reina unveiling at seven dollars a pop – that's the equivalent
of twenty five quid in real money. It's serious stuff.
Reina from the 1930s being publically reminded of the cruelty of ageing and the fleeting fickleness of transient beauty |
I'm sat at the
Fiesta de Tisaleo, a small Andean town with fewer than 5,000
inhabitants. It's a Sunday and we've just cracked open a six pack of
Club Rojas (Ecuador's most delicious local beer). Embarrassingly four
school children chose that moment to walk past with an anti-booze
banner which roughly translated as Dad's old maxim: “You don't need
a load of ale to have a good time.”
After the
guilt-tripping kids, it was turn for the parade of Reinas.
There was an offical
festival Reina, there was an old lady Reina, there was a Reina for
the taxi drivers' union, a Reina for the cobblers union, a Reina for
every local school, a Reina for the Reina's Union.
The Reina's job is to
smile, wave to the braying hoi polloi, kiss the mayor (seriously),
and shower gifts from her imperial chariot (which has just the
faintest odour of pig shit despite a good hosing the night before).
Most Reinas throw sweets, some throw oranges, one surrealist Reina threw basketballs and strawberries. However, the best freebies came from the cobblers' union
Reina, who lobbed boxes of shoes into the crowd. This rain of
plimsolls caused what in England we would call a riot but in Latin
America falls somewhere between a polite queue and a mild jostle.
Bit of leg for the dads |
The dads in the crowd
loved the Reinas, the mayor really loved the Reinas, even the
sweet-coveting kids loved the Reinas. All clean innocent fun, right?
Well I'm inclined to agree, if I'm prepared to overlook the inherent
sexism of the entire spectacle. The trouble is, I'm not.
For a start, the Reinas
never look completely natural. There's always that underlying
sordidness about the whole affair, a sort of grubby shame. Of course,
the Reina is the presiding monarch of the fiesta, it's just that she
is so vulnerable and exposed. One rat-arsed borracho can turn the
entire regal role on its head with a disrespectful cat-call or
well-aimed satsuma. You might remember the toe-curlingly sexist beauty contest I witnessed at the festival of Salango.
More sweets? You're sweet enough already, Darling |
Horse riding Reina, a clever twist on a well-trodden theme. Nice one, Treacle |
More questionable
still, the entire Reina parade takes place in front of thousands of
impressionable young girls. Make up, hair and a pretty smile are what
counts. The golden rule is Reinas are to be seen (read: perved over)
and not heard. It's not a very positive message for the next
generation.
Of course, I should be
careful what I wish for. I'm certainly not advocating giving the
Reinas soapboxes with their tiaras. The last thing I want to hear at
a boozy fiesta is some Bono-esque rant about destroying the
rainforest.
Give us a smile, Love |
Reinas, Reinas everywhere but not a drop to drink |
I'm pleased to see the wisdom of Eric Rayner has spread to the equator.
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